Pure Earth, Lhasa

Author – Meenakshi Sai

This sacred land has been enveloped in controversy for decades now, but the mysticism and the vibe of this holy land are incomparable. Known as the Rooftop of the world, the highest plateau on Earth, Tibet has an elemental beauty that is awe-striking. Nestled in the worlds highest mountains, you will encounter one of the most likeable cultures of the world no doubt.

Lhasa the city of wonders, most visitors instantly fall in love with. It is one of the highest cities in the world will only leave you either gasping for breath because of its high altitude or speechless. Either way, you are stumped for words. Humour apart, Lhasa is a Mecca for Buddhists across the world, particularly the Potala Palace and the 1300-year-old Jokhang Temple. Year around pilgrims come to these temples to pay their respects.

Your first view of this monstrous beauty will be jaw dropping, I bet. Towering up 13 storeys high, housing over 1000 rooms this fortress-like Monastery, once used to be the seat of the Tibetan Government and the winter residence of Dalai Lama. It took over 50 years to build, and it is so impressive that, it is said, the Chinese premier sent his own troops during the Chinese Revolution to protect it from destruction. Potala palace is massive with innumerable prayer rooms, murals, thousands of exquisite statues made from precious metals and studded with jewels, opulent reception halls, gilded ombs and stupas. The walk up the hill can be slightly taxing as the air is thin, and the steep steps do not help at all. Be sure to walk slowly and steadily, and do stop on the way up and enjoy the views of Lhasa. One is required to purchase tickets ahead, as entry is limited every day and a guide is required as well. Well, as a foreigner, a guide is mandatory to travel in Tibet at all times. From the time you get off the plane, a guide accompanies you wherever you go, making Tibet a slightly expensive destination for travellers.

The Jokhang temple, the most sacred temple of Lhasa is the exact opposite. Pilgrims throng this temple’s medieval dark
passageways and the smell of lamps burning with yak butter is definitely overpowering. The murmur of prayer is intoxicating as pilgrims perform innumerable prostrations. Buddhists believe that prostrations can fully purify their mind and help them earn a better life. You will see hundreds of pilgrims performing prostrations, going around the entire circumference of the Potala palace or even the Barkhor Street which is the most famed pilgrim circumambulation for Buddhism. Faith takes a new meaning here on these ancient streets. The oldest street in Lhasa hundreds of pilgrims performs full prostrations to the hand-polished stone day and night. Barkhor Street is lined with shops and a must-see for all Lhasa visitors to get a feel of real Buddhist atmosphere as well as purchase some local souvenirs. This area is a fascinating microcosm of Tibet and its good to spend a few hours here to soak it all in.

My favourites have been the Potala Palace and the Jokhang Temple, and if you haven’t had your fill yet, there are other monasteries as well. If you are in the mood for more Monasteries do visit the Sera Monastery, which was founded in 1419 and houses about 600 monks and it’s a great place to shoot the cliched pictures of monks in their maroon garbs. Some great photo opportunities here definitely. Very ‘instagrammable’ indeed.

Its best to walk the streets of Old Lhasa, and you will see shops crammed with exquisite Thangkas, authentic trinkets and jewellery, grab a bite at small roadside food stalls and the impossible raw beauty of Lhasa will sink in. For an unfiltered Tibetan experience, head to local Tea houses, and try the sweet changamo (milk tea). Yak meat Momos are extremely popular and if you are feeling adventurous try a Yak meat burger. Western food is widely available for the not so adventurous.

One thing to keep in mind when travelling to Tibet is the high altitudes. Lhasa is one of the highest cities in the world at an average altitude of 3650m. First-timers to high altitudes must be mindful at all times and report any discomfort mmediately. Also to visit Lhasa, including nearby towns and attractions, such as Namtso Lake, Ganden Monastery, one needs to arrange for permits beforehand. Spontaneous travel in Tibet is not possible because of these permits and can be highly restricting. The Rooftop of the world is somewhere one can find oneself -soul searching or get totally lost- in its beauty, either way, it is life-changing.